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There is one thing I know I shall never get enough of--champagne. I cannot say when I drank my first, prickly, delicious glass of it. . . . I think I probably started my lifelong affair with Dom Perignon's discovery in 1929, when I first went to France. It does not matter. I would gladly ask for the same end as a poor peasant's there, who is given a glass of champagne on his death bed to cheer him on his way.

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Source Notes: "Once a Tramp, Always . . . ," in The Art of the Personal Essay: An Anthology from the Classical Era to the Present, ed. Phillip Lopate (1995).

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